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24 Sep 19:39

Green Card Again

by Style Court
[My screengrabs are from the '91 movie.]
Anticipating next month's Deitz lecture, I decided to begin reading Of Gardens and take a virtual trip around the world.


What I didn't expect was time travel to the 1990s and a visit to the set of blogosphere favorite, Green Card.



Among Deitz's essays is a piece she wrote for the New York Times in 1990. While I believe a real-life late-19th-century building was used in the filming of fictional horticulturist Brontë's (aka Andie MacDowell's) much-coveted apartment, Deitz reports that production designer Wendy Stites created most of the rooftop conservatory -- the feature that makes the apartment so desirable -- on a Manhattan soundstage. (Stites also conjured the Frick-terrace-like garden where the beautifully lit formal dinner party takes place, and the very informal community garden spearheaded by Brontë.)



The designer unearthed old leaded glass to bring a sense of authenticity to Brontë's invented conservatory and hired Joni Brockschmidt as a greensperson, constantly refreshing the orchids and other plants, writes Deitz.


Apparently Andie MacDowell didn't let the magical set go to waste; after the shooting wrapped, she transported the conservatory to her own house. For more details, read Deitz's condensed, archived piece or better yet check out her book.
04 Sep 02:41

UNIFORM | Double Monk Straps

by Lizzie
MK Quinlan

To monk. Most definitely.


Above photo via Trashness. Below photos via Thom Dolan, The Sartorialist.

While observing the influx of fall wardrobe items flooding the internets, and with New York Fashion Week just around the corner, I started thinking about double monks. They've been a staple of the high-end #menswear scene for years (my favorites being of the Sid Mashburn variety), but I've only rarely seen them on girls. But, why not? Oxfords quickly became a standard for women, so  it only seems normal that monks could make the jump. What do you think? To monk or not to monk?
04 Sep 02:33

GEAR | Hartmann Luggage: A great American company that went south

by Lizzie
MK Quinlan

This absolutely breaks my heart. Hartmann is so....American. Thanks for writing about this. Great piece.


Perhaps one of the driving forces behind the heritage movement is that people want to hold on tight to the companies that are still making quality products, they want to hold on to the idea that manufacturers still care about history and the customer experience. I rarely write anything negative on this blog, but the Hartmann story is so disheartening that I found it hard not to.

Hartmann was founded in Milwaukee by trunkmaker Joseph Hartmann in 1877. He had a vision to build trunks and luggage that were "so fine [they would] stand as a symbol of excellence". For more than a century, his vision was carried out. The luggage was high quality and guaranteed for life—repairs were free and made without hassle. Even James Bond carried a Hartmann in Ian Fleming's 1954 novel Live & Let Die. Both Halston and Gloria Vanderbilt designed collections for Hartmann and it was all manufactured in the U.S., in Lebanon, Tennessee. 

I grew up with Hartmann, as you can see in the above photo of my mom's VW 1988 Passat wagon filled with Hartmann bags and a golden retriever. So it was a major let down when my husband bought a new Hartmann bag and the pull handle snapped off after about six uses. Isolated mishaps occur to well-made goods all the time, but after just a bit of research I found the poor quality to be a widespread event. Customers who have owned dozens of pieces and have been loyal customers for decades have been voicing dismay both for the quality and the immediate recent decline in customer service (such as "not getting" emails, long phone waits, not returning calls, not having replacement parts, and refusing to repair for free even though it's guaranteed for life).

What happened? Hartmann moved their manufacturing overseas and ultimately were bought by Samsonite. The Tennessee plant was closed for good last year. The quality has diminished, the customer service is some of the poorest I've experienced—think your cable company, but way worse—but the price tag has stayed the same. Cheap bags at a cheap price is one thing, but overpaying for a poorly-made bag is another. Make no mistake, they've kept the name Hartmann, but what you're buying today is not the old Hartmann.

This is a familiar song with many heritage companies because inevitably family companies change hands. In fact I recently heard a similar story about the iconic American luggage maker, Zero Halliburton. But why I find all this worth mentioning is not for the sake of complaining or acting like an internet crank, but because it serves as a great example as to why I and others love and feature the companies like FilsonDuluthKletterwerksGhurka, Rimowa, and all the other luggage makers around the world that still care about quality and experience.

Most of the time this blog is a "this", but sometimes I feel the need to say "not that".

Any of your luggage recommendations would be hugely appreciated.